Rattling Revolver

[mathdude]

I have a practically new S&W model 29 .44 mag with the 6 1/2 inch barrel. I bought it brand new about 1 1/2 months ago. I have put a little over 500 rounds through the gun and now there seems to be some sort of rattle if I shake or rock the gun back and forth. I suppose it's in the action of the gun because it will not rattle when the hammer is cocked. Any suggestions or ideas? Is this a serious problem or something that could become a serious problem? The gun still shoots fine and is as accurate as ever.

[mathdude]

Oh, by the way, it isn't the rear sight. I know that S&W sometimes leaves their rear sight loose.

[tnroadrunner]

I would contact S&W and see what they say, they might be able to solve your problem over the phone or you may have to send it to them.

[David Lewis]

[mathdude]

I called customer service and they said immediately that it was the "hammer block", which is supposedly a movable part. Does this sound familiar?

[David Lewis]

I can see where a transfer bar (to use Iver Johnson or Ruger's term) could rattle a bit, if that's what they are talking about, that is.

If it's their new keyed safety, I have no experience with those guns, so can't say. If it's that, then there's yet another reason to dislike it!

Sounds, though, as if the factory wasn't concerned about it...indeed, that they've fielded that question more than once. If they're not
worried about it, I wouldn't be either, unless it's a noisy problem in the woods.

David

[TacticaLogic]

I have both a model 629-1 and a 629-5. The 629-1 is the "firing pin on the hammer" model and does not have a "rattle". The 629-5 has the frame mounted "floating firing pin", but does not have the safety lock as is found on current production models. The 629-5 does have a light rattle in it that comes from the transfer bar. As I was not the first owner of the revolver, I did a complete disassembly on the revolver to make sure all was as it should be. As I reassembled the gun, I (after cleaning thoroughly) placed a quality gun oil on all wear areas, including the channel in which the transfer bar rides. At that time, there was no rattle... But as the revolver "dried out" (as all guns will when you carry them on a regular basis) the rattle showed up. I didn't worry about it, as I had already become used to this happening in my Taurus revolvers (that have used the transfer bar system for years.)

I don't believe you have anything to worry about... Enjoy your S&W!!!

Regards,
Mike

[David Lewis]

Mike--

I was hoping you'd chime in on this. Glad to hear your thoughts.

David

[TacticaLogic]

David -

Glad to help when I can.

I'll tell you though... I'm going to have to get a laptop and a wireless system here in the house. I posted my reply using Paula's I-phone (couldn't sleep and was surfing while waiting for the insomnia to play itself out - it finally did at 4:00a.m. this morning) and figured out quickly that I need a "plug-in" keyboard for that little rig (if anyone makes one.) I've been typing with all ten fingers since junior high school... Trying to type with only thumbs using the "hunt and peck" method took me forever. The keys on the screen are about 3/16's of an inch square and trying to hit them accurately with my big thumbs was a pain. Type four letters and then backspace to make a correction... Over and over again.

Anyway... I am now in search of a model 627 in a 4" variety. I would prefer the last model made (gently used or N.I.B.) before the "safety lock" was incorporated. I do not know what "627-xx" model number it would be. I am working on that information. My 629-5 needs a little brother, caliber wise. I can use the same leather, and reload much cheaper. And since I have about 4,000 pieces of .38 and .357 brass, 300 pounds of tire weights, the moulds, and all of the rest of the required material, I figure I can run a 627 for more than a few years without having to purchase any ammo.

HAVE A GREAT REST OF THE DAY!! See you tomorrow night!

Mike

[oldsmobile98]

My 620 rattles when you shake it too... except it does it both cocked and uncocked. Hm.

[TacticaLogic]

Olds98,

Cocked or Uncocked, the bar will rattle... No worries. If they made it so tight that it didn't rattle, you would run into a reliability problem in that the bar would bind up with powder residue, etc. as the revolver was repeatedly fired. It is the one part that S&W should let rattle on their revolvers. Everything else needs to be tight (sideplates, grips, sights) or at least fit within tight tolerances (cylinder crane to frame, cylinder to crane, trigger and hammer to frame, etc.)

Regards,
Mike

[oldsmobile98]

Thanks, that is good to know!

[lilredhunter]

Well not just to parrot what Mike has already stated about the tx bar. I know that the later models of the S&W revolver with the bar residue does quickly build up in the track for the tx bar. That is a perfect reason to clean the daylights out of your gun after firing it. If that residue is left it will cause reliability problems. So if it didn't rattle , it would show that the wheel gun is too tight. Sometimes you need to disassemble your weapon if you are comfortable doing such. You may actually need to get a burr off the bar. Sometimes they don't get them perfect before they ship them out. I prefer to take mine apart when I get them. That way I can see if everything is where it should be. If your new to disassembling a weapon, look at brownells and find a diagram of your weapon and follow it to assemble or disassemble it.

[tnxdshooter]

The taurus model 85 has some of the same problems with that block. It makes sense since they are made on smith dies and all.

[TacticaLogic]

[tnxdshooter]

Right,

Basically the point I was trying to make is that the Taurus Model 85 rattles. It is also made on S&W dies. It is perfectly normal for the model 85 to rattle and perfectly normal for the Smith to rattle a little to.