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Tennessee Firearms Assoc. Inc. • View topic - 1941 Finish M91 Rifle

1941 Finish M91 Rifle

Everything from shooting, to investing to fixing them

Moderator: tnroadrunner

1941 Finish M91 Rifle

Postby GraceOutcast » Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:45 pm

Interested in buying a 1941 Finish M91 rifle from a gentleman for $150. Anyone ever had any experience with
this particular rifle? The only downside for me is he lives 2 hours away and I really don't want to waste a trip
for a possible piece of junk rifle.

It'd compliment my 1941 Swedish Mauser quite well me thinks :P

Thanks!
GraceOutcast
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 6:34 pm

Re: 1941 Finish M91 Rifle

Postby TacticaLogic » Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:53 pm

There are many variations of the Finnish M91 rifle. I have a 1940 Tikka manufactured version. If is a well built rifle but, due to its previous life, is no tack-driver. It has a tight action and I wouldn't hesitate in taking it deer hunting at ranges out to 125 yards, iron sighted. There is a lot of good information available here: ; here: ; and here: .

I went through a spell back in the early 1980's of buying just about any military surplus rifle that I could find that was servicable. My favorite place to find them was the old "Roses" department store. They would put out their sales flyer in the Sunday morning paper, but didn't open until 1:00p.m. I would be there when the doors opened - and they would be expecting me. I was allowed to go through all the rifles they had, including the ones not on display, so that I could pick out the one I wanted. It was great! Some prices I remember: Finnish M91, arsonal refinished, for $49.95; 1916 Spanish Mauser in 7mm Mauser, like new, $54.95; 1908 Argentine Mauser, a real show piece, for $59.95; Enfield #4 Mk1(T), arsonal refinished, for $49.94; Enfield #1 Mk3, like new, for $59.95. Those were the days!!! I wish now that I had invested in about 3 of everything...

A couple of things about military surplus rifles... First: Make sure you look down that bore! I have seen people buy surplus rifles that they planned on shooting, only to get home and find that there was a pin driven through the chamber that was there to prevent a cartridge from being loaded - THEY HAD BOUGHT A DRILL RIFLE. Second: You need to know how to check them out for safety, and if you don't, you need to find someone that does know how to check them. Often military surplus rifles can be "parts guns". If so, it will probably be obvious - but look for matching numbers on parts (sometimes the part may only have the last three digits of a serial number due to limited space, but it would be considered matching) to avoid buying a "parts gun". The reason I say this is that ofter you can buy a "matching numbers" gun for the same price as a "parts gun." This happens because some folks know a buyer will not be knowledgable about the differences of "matching numbers" gun and a "parts gun" - but often, "parts guns" may not have even been test fired. At the same time, it is wise to check out the "matching numbers" guns before you go shoot them... You can never be too safe... Back in the old days, I would find some ammo with the heaviest bullets I could find, lash the rifle to a tire, make sure it was pointed down range, load it, and then fire it with a long string from behind cover. Several heavy loads fired would usually reveal any problems. Learn how to look at the fired cases in order to spot any problems such as excessive headspace (on rimless or semi-rimmed cartridges) or chamber erosion (in firearms that fire rimmed cartridges.) You can often find that information in a good reloading manual (or at least you used to be able to do that - all of my manuals are old, because I haven't found need to buy new ones.)

Unfortunately, the only way you'll find out if the rifle is really worth the 2 hour drive is to make the 2 hour drive. If the rifle is a good clean matching numbers gun (assuming that the rifle was manufactured with numbers on various parts - not all were) that has tight action, with a good bore, I think you would be happy you made the 2 hour drive. If it is a beat up rifle, you will not be happy that you made the drive... But one way I always counter the possibility of a "wasted trip" is to look up all of the gun shops in the area, write down their addresses and call on them while you are in the area. If you don't buy the rifle from the gentleman, you might spend you money in one of the area gun shops and come home with something else that would make you happy.

Stay safe, Stay armed,
Mike
For training beyond the carry permit:



TacticaLogic
 
Posts: 198
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:41 pm

Re: 1941 Finish M91 Rifle

Postby GraceOutcast » Fri Sep 11, 2009 10:26 pm

Thank you sir for your very detailed advise. If I decide to get this I'll post some pictures of my acquisition
GraceOutcast
 
Posts: 58
Joined: Sat Apr 11, 2009 6:34 pm

Re: 1941 Finish M91 Rifle

Postby SomeGuy » Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:25 am

Grace, did you ever go for it?

If not, does he still have it? I am interested if you are not.
J. E. F. II, MSN, RN.
SomeGuy
 
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Location: Hamilton Co.


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