by C. Richard Archie » Sun May 31, 2009 4:46 pm
About the only thing that requires more paraphernalia than reloading is owning a horse, duck hunting or being married, and just as each of these can be done with a minimum of accouterments, the available options are boundless.
There are basic steps to follow for metallic reloading, i.e. rifle and pistol rounds,
First, an understanding of the process:
The basic make up of any round, and I divide reloading into shot shell and metallic on the basis of the make up of the cartridges, the two are different in many respects, tough similar in that there is a container for the components in each. Rifle and pistol rounds have a casing that is made up entirely of metal, as opposed to shot shell which will have a metallic base and plastic or paper wall section. Both have primers, powder and a payload. In shot shells, that is sometimes shot, other times a single projectile, round ball or slug.
The primer contains a mixture of materials that will detonate, producing a spark, replacing the flint and steel of the first firearms. This park causes the burn of a powder charge, in times past that was black powder, today we use "smokeless" in our modern arms, though black powder is still a viable option, and many states have seasons specifically for their use, but these discussions will relate to smokeless, as it is more generally used today, and is the propellant type for all modern cartridges.
Gunpowder burns upon ignition, and the rapidly expanding gases produced are what causes the projectile to be forced down the bore. The various powders burn at different rates, depending on size of capacity of a case, and the type of projectile, their applicability is encoded in the various manuals provided by powder manufacturers, bullet makers, and even weapon manufacturers. These manuals are the "recipe" books of the reloading realm. They are produced to be guidelines for the reloader, and I suggest that any one beginning the process purchase several different sources, each will lend specifics for their applications.
There are several producers of reloading equipment, and each will have instruction manuals for the use of their products. These are very good sources of information as well. To name a few of those available today, RCBS, Lyman, Redding, Lee, and Dillon are among the better known suppliers.
For a beginning layout, these are the steps that will be needed.
1. Case prep, cleaning the used case and bringing it back to usable condition.
2. Physically altering the spent cast to proportions allowing it to be recharged.
3. Addition of new primer, powder and projectile.
4. Crimping the projectile if necessary.
There are various types of case cleaners, from vibratory ones that use crushed walnut shells or ground corn cob media, to tumblers that can use the same media or other types, or chemical procedure.
A press is required, either bench mounted or hand held, to hold the various dies needed to "work" the case back to a condition that affords it to be used again. Steps required are to deprime, or remove the expended primer, resize the case to allow it to be chambered, a powder charge is then inserted, the projectile is placed and seated, and depending on the application, the projectile may need to be crimped in place. There are various types of presses, from simple hand held units, to elaborate "Progressive" presses that feature the ability to speed up the process. Each of the major manufacturers offer "kits' that will include the basic needed tools, complete with dies specific to a caliber.
My advice to the novice is to start with a "single stage" press kit. Dies are threaded to allow them to be inserted into the press at the proper elevation for work on specific cartridges. For pistol rounds, normally the dies consist of a deprime/resize die, a bell die that will expand the case mouth to accept the new bullet, a seat die that places the new bullet at the proper length, and a crimp die to squeeze the case mouth to hold the projectile in place against recoil, sometimes the seat and crimp die are one in the same, especially with revolver rounds, the specialized needs of semi autos require a different type of crimp, as the revolver normally “headspaces” (the function of holding the case in place for firing) on a rim at the base of the case, while semi autos headspace on the mouth of the case, their rim being the same diameter as the case itself, and used as a gripping area for the extraction.
These days, most manufacturers offer “carbide” dies, which are made to function without lube during the resizing step, if a carbide type is not used, then each case has to be lubricated to prevent “sticking” in the resize die.
“Bottleneck” rifle cases always require lubrication, even if carbide dies are used, due to the geometry of their construction. The addition and removal of lubrication is another step in the preparation of rifle cartridges normally not needed with pistol rounds.
Rifle cases also stretch in length upon firing, and will require being trimmed from time to time.
Another useful step in providing longevity of rifle cases is annealing, looked at with disdain by some, and as an absolute necessity by others.
A scale for weighing powder charges is mandatory, either balance beam type or electronic.
I will find and post far better descriptions as time allows. Meanwhile, checking the web sites of the various manufacturers will afford the new loader a wide reach of information.
"It does not require a majority to prevail, but rather an irate, tireless minority keen to set brush fires in people's minds." Samuel Adams
TFA/NRA Life Member
Chapter Leader, West TN Regional Chapter