Recommendations on reloading

[lilredhunter]

Ok after all the years of shooting and just buying factory ammo, I have decided to start reloading. My dad taught me how when I was a kid but heck, I must digress I have forgotten everything. I no longer have anything my dad had for reloading so I figure I will approach this like a newbie. What press do you folks think is a good press to start with? I am not looking to buy the best Dillon "Blue Press" out there. I just want to know what is a good fairly reasonably priced one that can be expanded a little later with some of the nicer features to add to make it quicker and easier. The only presses I even know about are the Lyman and the Dillon. Are there better ones, or easier ones to start the learning process over again.In the beginning I plan to buy most things needed like brass,bullets etc... Eventually I will buy the molds to make my own bullets. I already have a good start with lead. I have collected up 5, 5 gallon buckets of old wheel weights. So I figure it is a decent start.I have about 150 pcs of 9mm brass. I think I have a good start on this. But I am open to any and all thoughts on this.

[C. Richard Archie]

If you intend to load pistol, and rifle ammo, and want to go progressive, I am a drinker of the "Blue" Kool-aid, nothing beats a Dillon, and if you want to do rifle and pistol, the 550 is the way to go.

I however would suggest a quality single stage press to start with. If you are going to be doing precision loads for rifle, you will need one in the long run.

Dies for any caliber will work for either single stage or progressive, though the specific progressive dies are maybe better for the progressive machine. I have loaded a ton of .38/.357 with my original RCBS dies set up in my Dillon 550, and they have worked flawlessly.

Buy the best quality you can afford, and you will have it for the rest of your life.

[TacticaLogic]

Chris, I always recommend that those starting out try to maintain some sense of balance in regards: How much are you going to spend on reloading equipment versus how much you will actually be reloading? There is no sense in buying a maxed out press if you are only going to use it a couple of times a year. While I inherited my reloading press (an old Herters Super Model 81C co-axial cast iron 38 pound monster) and a couple of sets of dies, I have had to purchase my scales, tumbler, powder measure, and some other dies I needed. If I were going to be shooting benchrest or matches, I would spare no expense on my dies... But I am usually shooting stock handguns or rifles at CQB distances, and have not found the need to "work up match loads" for this. My only "shoot for accuracy" round is my .44 Magnum long distance stuff and I use a set of Redding dies inherited with the press. With the exception of my .38/.357 dies and my .30 Carbine dies (both are RCBS) all of my other dies are manufactured by Lee - and I've had no problem with them. I know people say "you get what you pay for", but I'm happy with my Lee dies. If money were no object, I would have a great big automated system in my garage to make ammo all day long. But times are hard and you have to watch your pennies.

Here are a couple of items I saved from the web that might be of help. They are old and I would give attribution to the author if I knew who they were...
START:
I'm posting this to help the new reloader figure out what they need in the way of equipment and to help them get started reloading safely and with a reasonable amount of knowledge. If anyone has any suggestions to add to this or changes to make to the below to improve this, please post or send me a PM and I'll be glad to have constructive criticism to improve the information.

Before you get any of the reloading equipment on the equipment list below, you’ll want to do some reading. You won’t need all of them, but here’s are some good manuals to start with:

The ABC's of Reloading (I strongly advise starting with this one.)
Metallic Cartridge Reloading (I strongly advise buying this one second.)
Speer Manual
Modern Reloading by Richard Lee
Lyman Metallic Reloading Handbook
Hornady 5th Edition Reloading Handbook (2 volume set)

1. A reloading press for what you're doing. You’ll need to know what type of cartridge and in what quantities you want too shoot before a press can be advised, so think on how much you think you'll shoot. This is the most important set of decision making you have regarding selection of equipment – how much?, what type? and in what quantities? are questions you need to start with.

Generally speaking, a single stage press may be better for more accurate cartridges in rifle and providing solid control of the reloading process for a new reloader. The only drawback is the volume of produced rounds versus the effort required can be low. The RCBS Rock Chucker, the Lee Classic Cast Press, Redding Boss and Forester Coax are all excellent choices. (However, the new Lee Classic Turret Press, capable of 200 rounds or better per hour, is beefy and may very well be a good choice for rifle as well as pistol.)

I should note you can easily reload smaller calibers like .223 on most progressives, but for ultimate accuracy, the competitors seem to go with a single stage for their long distance round building.). If you go with the Rock Chucker or Lee Classic Cast press, I'd suggest also getting a Hornady Lock N Load bushing conversion kit for the Rock chucker or Lee Classic Cast press with another 10 additional bushings. The Lee is the least expensive of the bunch, is the latest single stage out and has compared favorably with the Rock Chucker and like the Rock Chucker, will accept the Hornady Lock N Load Conversion Bushing kit.

With the Lock N Load bushings, you adjust your dies once, tighten down the lock ring and next time you want to change dies, you just insert, twist and snap/lock in and you're done changing dies in about 2 seconds. I used these on my Lee Classic Cast press and I have found them to be wonderful. BTW, you can use a single stage press to do specialized tasks and to reload quantities of less than 100 rounds at a time, such as hunting rifle ammunition, so it’s useful even if you do have a progressive.

For reloading pistol, you’d want to consider a turret or progressive press. If you are new, a turret would likely be the better choice (Unless you desire to reload large quantities in excess of 200 rounds an hour or a 1000 rounds a month.), to have a bit more control and to get an understanding of what’s happening, though a progressive is “do-able,” you run a larger risk of making a mistake that could harm you or damage your pistol/rifle. Good brands of turrets are Lee Classic Turret Press (4 station, automatic advance), RCBS (88901, cast iron) and Redding (T7, cast iron). For the lowest price, the Lee will do an excellent job, providing 200 plus rounds per hour and will get you started at a very affordable price. If you decide to stay with it, you may want to go progressive and keeping your Lee Classic Cast Turret will provide you inexpensive caliber changes for guns you don't shoot a lot.

If you find you reload a large quantity of rounds and want to go full blown progressive, excellent brands are Hornady Lock N Load (5 station fully automated; I have one and love it.), Dillon 550 (4 station semi-automated turret, quite popular with many folks.) or 650 (5 station fully automated, buddy of mine has one and loves it.), (Dillon’s SBD is a good press if you're only going to reload pistol, but it’s dies won’t fit anything other press, nor will any other dies fit it, so you’re stuck with Dillon dies and it doesn’t reload rifle.) and the RCBS 2000 (An excellent cast iron semi automated press comparable to the Dillon 550, it has an excellent primer feed - owners who post seem to love theirs. I have no personal experience).

Very Good economy brands are the Lee Pro 1000 and Loadmaster (A very fast press, the Loadmaster, buddy of mine loves his and I've enjoyed reloading on it.). The Lee’s are less expensive and may take some tweaking and adjusting, but it can be done and it’s way less expensive to purchase, a serious consideration if your money is tight. You should be aware that if you buy the Lee’s, you’d need to adjust them properly to get good operation. Here’s a good how to website for Lee equipment and Lee Precision’s own website has excellent “how to” mpegs on it as well:

http://www.geocities.com/leereloading/index.htm

http://www.leeprecision.com/

2. Reloading dies for the caliber of your choice. I have Hornady, Lee, Lyman and RCBS dies, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy and use Dillon, who also load excellent ammo and were specifically designed for progressive reloading. Many posters who own them say Redding is the Cadillac of dies, but they tend to be pricey. I would only explore the Redding and other higher priced dies if your plan were to reload for serious competitive or long range hunting purposes.

For pistol, you'll want to buy carbide or TiN coated dies, so that you do not have to lubricate your brass to prevent it sticking in the die. For a single stage press (Or Lee Turret press), you'll need a shell holder that matches the caliber you're loading. For a progressive, you’ll need a shell plate.

3. A Powder measure/dispenser (Many kits include these.) I like the Hornady, RCBS and Redding brands for these. I have both the Hornady and Redding brands. Of these, the Hornady and RCBS have an automated version I’ve found to be more consistent because of the automated feature. Mine came with my Hornady Lock and Load Auto Progressive Press.

For more automated powder dispensing, the Lee Auto Disk, the Hornady Lock N Load and the Dillon measures offer case activated powder dispensing and expanding capabilities, which are very desirable if you wish to load pistol. All three work very well on a progressive press, giving consistent powder dispensing. Some powder measures work better when you use powder the measure "likes," so be aware and ask about which powders which measures work with with before you buy.

4. A powder scale, no matter single stage, turret or progressive, you'll need one of these. I like the RCBS 505 and 1010, the Hornady and the Dillon scales. I have a Redding, but wish I had gotten another brand because the fine adjustment is hard to see and can be bumped out of adjustment accidentally. My plan is to replace the Redding with an RCBS 1010 when I can, because of the positive fine adjustment on the RCBS 1010. Others like the electronic measures, but I haven’t found as mainly a progressive reloader the cost justifies the expensive for no more than I use my scale. (I use mine as a check for my powder measures, not to weigh out powder charges.)

5. A set of calipers to measure your cartridges with. I have a Frankford Arsenal set that's done well for me. I have recently replaced it with a 6” digital set I bought at Harbor Freight Tools (It’s done a great job since I’ve had it and I really like the digital feature.). Other folks spend a lot more money, but these have been more than accurate enough for everything I've loaded, including high-power rifle cartridges for competitive purposes.

6. A reloading manual- I have and like Speer, but Hornady, Lee and a couple other folks make excellent ones. I haven't heard much about Lyman's reloading manual, but their lead bullet manual is pretty good. A good loading book on the basics like the ABC's of Reloading and Metallic Cartridge Reloading can help you understand the process a lot better. Read them a couple times it will get you to a good understanding. Read the directions that come with your press, dies etc.

7. Some snap lid plastic storage containers with bins to store all the little pieces and parts from the equipment. It might not be a bad idea to look at plastic fishing tackle boxes, as they have lots of storage compartments.

8. Some Akro plastic bins to hold your brass, bullets and loaded cartridges while you're in the process of reloading. If you're loading single stage, you might need some cartridge blocks to regain the brass in various stages of production. Buy the cheapest bins out there, such as Harbor Freight; they're all plastic so you gain nothing by paying more. For reloading on a single stage, you’ll need loading blocks for the period where your cases are charged with powder and are waiting for bullets.

9. A couple of adjustable wrenches, one six inch and one eight inch. There may be other hand tools, but if you have a toolbox, you may already have them. Or you can identify the correct size wrenches you need for a better fit when adjusting things.

10. Bullet pullers, both kinetic and collet types, to correct your mistakes. Why both? The kinetic puller to cover oddball calibers you decide to buy and load and the collet puller to cover the calibers you load the most. I had the kinetic made by Frankford Arsenal in the past, but because of price changes, I now recommend the RCBS one, because of their excellent warranty (They’ll exchange it if it breaks, no matter how long you’ve owned it.). BTW, the collets for the Frankford Arsenal fit the RCBS. I like the Hornady and RCBS collet pullers, because of their operation speed and they don’t spill the powder everywhere.

11. A brass trimmer. I have an RCBS Trim Pro automated version and have recently added the head that chamfers. Makes it real nice if you’re processing large quantities of brass that need trimming and chamfering. I used to compete in high-power rifle, reload lots of rifle cartridges that need to be trimmed to length occasionally. For smaller quantities of brass, a hand trimmer would be sufficient and much more fun to use. You will need to check your brass is not over the maximum allowed length. After trimming, you will need a de-burring tool cleans up the inside and outside necks so the case-mouth isn't sharp and bullets insert smoothly without damage. RCBS offers the Trim Mate to automate this, as well as the chamfering heads for their Trim Pro. Most automatic pistol cartridges do not need to be trimmed. If you[‘re doing a serious volume of competitive shooting, you may want to take a look at the Giraud and Gracey trimmers.

12. Cartridge gauge. These are nicely convenient to check to see if your reloaded cartridges are within SAAMI specification. They are especially useful when reloading pistol cartridges I’ve found.

13. Case lube - I use Hornady One Shot on my rifle cartridges, but I find it and their cleaner lube handy for lubricating moving parts on my progressive that I don't have grease and oil getting into. For rifle cartridges you can lube with a pad and case lube (such as the one included in the RCBS kit) or use something like Hornady one-shot or try out Imperial Sizing Die Wax, which I hear is another excellent product. My recommendation is the One Shot or the Imperial wax over the messy lube pads.

14. Brass - I recommend you research and buy a better brand of brass, particularly what the majority of folks shooting your caliber are loading, it'll generally be (but not always) the best compromise of quality and price. Occasionally something new comes along that whips the "standard" pretty badly. Though sometimes, it’s about the same price to buy preloaded cartridges, shoot them and reload the brass. You come out about the same cost wise, but get to shoot it more. Range pick up can be nice at times as well. If you’re not sure about a brand of brass, ask on the reloading forums. Thoroughly inspect any brass you decide to reload in order to identify problems with that brass.

15. Powder - Again, start with the "Ole standby" for your cartridge (if one exists) and then move out to other brands as you gain reloading experience. Post on the net and folks will provide you with what the “Ole standby” is for any particular caliber.

16. Bullets - FMJ is great, but lead is cheaper. I'd advise buying them in bulk, 500 to a thousand at a time. You'll want to learn how to reload before you even think about making your own lead bullets. Depending on the caliber you're shooting, this will certainly result in significant savings. This is for range practice. For hunting, go with the best bullets you can afford for the type of animal you’re hunting. Once you’ve learned how to reload, you can also cast and “roll your own” bullets as well.

17. Safety glasses, wear them while you're reloading, just like you do when you're shooting. There is nothing like making a mistake; then blowing up a primer and losing an eye to ruin one’s day.

18. You will need to clean the brass. Bose's Guns, (http://www.bosesguns.com/) has a Frankford Arsenal combination that does well, it's the one I have. Another more expensive alternative would be the Dillon combination (Dillonprecision.com). Other manufacturers make other good ones as well. The ones mentioned are the ones I’m familiar with.

Finally, build yourself a nice, stable reloading bench. Some make their bench huge, with lots of surface area. I suggest to you that rather than do this; you make the bench just big enough to set up a reloading operation with AKRO plastic bins (bought cheaply from an industrial supply outfit in large quantity). You will need a single "universal" reloading tray to hold the cartridges while they are primed and charged, waiting for bullets.

Having owned both large and small bench setups, I've found setting up two or even three smaller benches and making shelving units to store the accessories and reloading components works better for me.

I've had to move a time or two and the huge benches were a real problem. With a bench narrower than the width of your doors, if you have to move, you don't have to disassemble it (Much more convenient not to have to disassemble when you're busy as hell trying to get ready to move.) Also, make it short enough you can move it around corners within your house.

And this:

Quick Reference Reloading Guide
1. Clean and check:
Using a soft cloth, wipe each case clean to prevent dirt from scratching the case and resizing die. Inspect the case for anything that would keep it from being safety reloaded, such as split case mouths, case head separations, excessive bulges and other case defects. Any case found to be defective should be crushed with a pair of pliers and thrown away.

2. Lubricate the cases (part 1):
Because of the force involved, you'll need to lubricate the cases before they go into a sizer die. Spread some lube on the pad and lubricate the body of the case. If you're using a carbide sizer die for reloading straight-wall pistol cases, you can eliminate this step.

3. Lubricate the cases (part 2):
Clean dirt and powder residue from inside case necks and simultaneously add a light coating of case lube with a case neck brush. This will reduce resizing effort and prevent excess working of the brass. Roll the brush across the lube pad after every three or four cases for just the right amount.

4. Install the shell holder:
Snap a shell holder into the press ram with a slight twisting motion. The shell holder will securely grip the head of the cartridge case. Check the pistol shell holder reference chart or the rifle shell holder reference chart to determine which shell holder to use for a particular cartridge.

5. Install the Sizer Die:
Thread the sizer die into the press until the die touches the shell holder when the ram is at the top of the press stroke. Raise the press handle and turn the die down another one eight to one-quarter of a turn and set the large lock ring. If you're using a carbide sizer die, leave a 1/16" gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder.

6. Insert the case:
With the press handle in the up position, slide a case into the shell holder.

7. Resize the case:
Now, gently but firmly lower the press handle all the way to the bottom and run the case all the way into the sizer die. This will resize the case to is original dimensions and knock the fired primer out the bottom of the case. Next, raise the press handle. This will lower the case and expand the case mouth (on bottle-neck cartridges), correctly setting the case neck diameter to hold the bullet tighter.

8. Trim the Case:
After several firings, cases sometimes stretch and become longer than the specified maximum length. These cases must be trimmed to allow for proper chambering and for safety reasons. The trimmer works like a small lathe and can be used to trim most cases up through 45 caliber.

9. Chamfer and Deburr:
Cases that have been trimmed need to also be chamfered and deburred. This will remove any burrs left on the case after trimming and will allow a new bullet to be easily seated into the case. Insert the pointed end of the Deburring Tool into the case to remove burrs and chamfer the case mouth. Fit the other end over the case mouth to remove exterior burrs.
10. Expand the case mouth:
This is a separate step that is required for reloading straight-wall cases. Because of their design, straight-wall cases need to be expanded in a separate expander die. install the expander die in the press, place a sized case in the shell holder and run it into the die. The expander plug should be adjusted so the case mouth is belled or flared just enough to accept the new bullet.

11. Prime the case (part 1):
Use the Primer Tray-2 for fast, easy primer handing. To use, first scatter primers onto the grooved surface of the tray. Then, shake the tray horizontally until all the primer are positioned anvil side up.

12. Prime the case (part 2):
Place a fresh primer, anvil side up, into the cup of the primer arm and insert a case into the shell holder.

13. Prime the Case (part 3):
Lower the handle and push the primer arm all the way into the slot in the shell holder ram.

14. Prime the Case (part 4):
Now, gently and slowly raise the press handle. As the case is drawn out of the die it will be lowered onto the fresh primer which will be seated into the primer pocket. Inspect the primer to make sure it is properly seated. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, the primer must be seated firm firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket.

15. Powder Charging (part 1):
Consult your reloading manual to learn what kind of powder and exactly how much is recommended to reload your cartridge. Then weigh the recommended charge on your scale.

16. Powder Charging (part 2):
After accurately weighting the powder charge, pour it into the case through a powder funnel.

17. Powder Charging (part 3):
Another way to measure powder is to use a powder measure. It will dispense a precise, uniform charge with each crank of the handle, eliminating the need to weight every charge on a scale. Fill the measure with powder and throw several charges to establish flow and settle the powder in the hopper. Return this powder to the hopper. Use your reloading scale to adjust the powder measure. Weigh every charge until several consecutively thrown charges each show the desired weight. Recheck the weight about every ten cases.

18. Bullet Seating (part 1):
Having primed and charged the case, you're ready for the next step - seating the bullet. (These next few steps are, again, mostly for bottleneck cartridges. The steps are slightly different for straight-wall cases) Thread the seater die a few turns into the press. Put a case in the shell holder and lower the press handle, running the ram with the case to the top of the press stroke. Turn the die body down until it stops. The crimp shoulder in the die is now pressing against the top of the case mouth. Now, while looking at the headstamp on top of the die, back the die out one complete turn. This raises the crimp shoulder above the case mouth. Secure the die in position with the die lock ring.

19. Bullet Seating (part 2):
Next, unscrew the seater plug enough to keep the bullet from being seated too deep.

20. Bullet Seating (part 3):
With the handle in the up position, insert a properly, primed and charged case into the shell holder.

21. Bullet Seating (part 4):
Take a bullet and hold it over the case mouth with one hand while you lower the press handle with the other, easing the case and bullet up into the die. After raising the handle, note the seating depth of the loaded round.

22. Bullet Seating (part 5):
If the bullet needs to be seated deeper into the case, run the seater plug down. Run the loaded round back up into the die, raise the press handle and check the seating depth again. It may take another adjustment or two to get the proper and final bullet seating depth. Once proper seating depth is achieved, tighten the small seater plug lock ring.
23. That's It:
Your first reloaded cartridge is ready to be fired. Of course, this shows only one case going through all the reloading steps. When actually reloading, you'd take a batch of cases through each operation before moving on the next step.
END

Hope this helps!!

Mike

[C. Richard Archie]

Excellent post, one of the best and informational I have ever seen!

[tdfirearms]

Thank you TacticaLogic!!! I was needing all of that info. myself. I am in about the same boat. I am getting all of my dad's equipment. I have not reloaded in a very long time and never really got into pistol and rifle reloads. Me mainly reloaded shotgun.

[Butch Butler]

No question about it Dillon is top of the market.You should decide how much reloading you are going to do.I shoot in Cowboy Action and go through about 2 thousand rounds in a good year.All of my stuff is Lee except for my scales and I use a RCBS Balance Scale and a digital scale from midway.I use the digital to check every 50th round and the balance scale to set up.I have a progressive for 38/357 and a single stage for all other calibers.I have had very good results with Lee equipment.It is really up to you on how much to spend.The 1 thing I would suggest is buy the best load manual you can.Reloading is alot of fun but it can go wrong if you dont pay attention to detail.
I do a little bullet molding as well for muzzelloading.The wheel weights you mentioned will be hard so you will have to add some different metals to soften it.So you will also need to buy a tool to check the hardness.You will need to do your molding in a well ventalated area.Bullet hardness and bullet lube will affect barrel fouling and amount of smoke after each shot.
Butch

[TacticaLogic]

Just got a chance to sit down and go through some of my other reloading information that is not contained within a "table" (not sure how to post a "table" on the forum - I may reformat and get the other stuff on here anyway.)

I use a lot of Alliant powders, but this doesn't make them the "end all, be all" of powders. It is just what I started with (inherited) and so my loads are worked up with Alliant powders. Imagine my surprise when I found out they had changed the formula for Alliant 2400! Had to rework my .44 Magnum loads again. A 250 Keith bullet (true Keith - no gas check) over 22 grains of 2400... Now running with 23 grains. Not something you want to spend a whole day at the range shooting unless you enjoy inflicting pain upon yourself. Real wrist breakers after a while. But it will accurately ring the gong out to 300 yards and beyond (if you know how much front sight to have sticking up above the rear sight and if you can maintain the hold!)

This is just a very basic listing of powders and their use. You will find the "brand" at the beginning of each company's products. It is by no means "all inclusive"... Some may find this of interest...

Powders

Accurate Brand
Nitro 100
A fast burning, double base flake propellant. Developed for 1 and 1-1/8 ounces of shot in 12 gauge for trap, skeet, and light field loads. It is excellent in low pressure revolver cartridges, and is especially well suited for the .45 Colt. Clean burning in all applications. It is also relatively temperature insensitive.

No. 2
A fast burning, low density, double base, ball propellant developed for use in .38 Special target loads. It is excellent for target loads in almost all handgun cartridges, especially where low pressure and clean burning are desirable. Its low charge weights help the handloader stretch his shooting dollar.

No. 5
A relatively fast burning double base, ball propellant developed for use in the .45 ACP that is somewhat slower than Unique. It is used in more handgun cartridges than any of Accurate Arms other handgun propellants. This is one of their most popular propellants.

No. 7
A double base, ball propellant originally developed for 9mm NATO carbine ammunition. It has become a favorite propellant for IPSC shooters who shoot the .38 Super Auto. Somewhat more specialized in applications than No. 2 or No. 5, it is well suited to high intensity cartridges. The popularity of No. 7 has increased dramatically since its introduction in 1983. It is a good choice for magnum handgun cartridges (such as .357, .41, and .44 Magnum) when slightly less than full power loads are preferred.

No. 9
This is Accurates slowest handgun propellant, and is the best .44 Magnum powder available. This double base, ball propellant gives excellent velocities for the pressures generated, and with less flash than comparable powders. It is intended for use in large capacity handgun cartridges (.357, .41, .44 Magnum, and .454 Casull). It is also suited to some small rifle cases (.25-20 Winchester, .30 M1 Carbine) and the .410 shotgun. No. 9 performs best with heavier bullets in most cartridges. A heavy bullet pull is required for consistent performance when using lighter bullets.

1680
A double base, ball propellant developed specifically for the 7.62x39 cartridge in which it performs well due to its excellent loading density. It is the best powder for the .22 Hornet. Also suitable for small capacity cases such as the T/CU series, the .222 Remington and the .223 Remington with lighter bullets.

2015BR
A single base, small-grained, extruded propellant developed specifically for "bench rest cartridges," such as the PPC and BR series. This powder was tested at the Bench Rest Nationals in 1990 and subsequently adopted by shooters such as Ferris Pindall and Sal Ventimiglia. It is extremely flexible, giving excellent performance in many cartridges from .22 Hornet to .458 Winchester Magnum.

2230 (Formerly MR-223)
One of Accurates most popular rifle propellants. A double base, ball propellant developed for use in the .223 Remington (5.56 NATO). It is very popular with those shooters who load large quantities of .223 Remington ammo.

2460
This medium-burning ball propellant is increasing in popularity with NRA, IHMSA, and bench rest shooters. Useful in a wide variety of cartridges. It is slightly slower than 2230 and shows a small pressure advantage over 2230 in bores 7mm and over. An excellent choice in .308 Winchester, 2460 is appropriate for use with M1 and M14 (M1A) service rifles. Some high power shooters are using it with 180 brain bullets for 1,000 yard matches.

2495BR
Very similar to 4895, this single base, extruded propellant gives satisfactory performance in a wide variety of cartridges. It offers service rifle shooters who prefer extruded propellants an Accurate alternative to our 2520. This is absolutely our best propellant for shooting cast bullets in the .45-70 Govt.

2520
Destined to be one of the most popular rifle propellants of all time. This medium-slow burning double base ball propellant gives excellent results in medium capacity cases (.308 class) and certain applications in large bore cartridges. This powder was in the winner's circle in NRA High Power competition before it had been the market two years! 2520 is first choice for target shooters using 168 grain bullets in the .308 Winchester. It has a pressure curve appropriate for use with M1 and M14 (M1A) service rifles. In fact, some shooters now call it the "Camp Perry" powder.


2700
Accurates newest ball rifle, it fills the gap between 2520 and 4350. It is intended to be used as a heavy bullet powder in many cartridges (bullet weights lighter than those listed may not maintain our standards for shot-to-shot consistency). Exceptions to this are notably the .17 Remington, .22-250 Remington and the .220 Swift with varmint bullets, where it excels.

4350
The old favorite. America's most popular reloading propellant for rifle cartridges, a single base, extruded propellant equal in all respects to IMR 4350. With its consistent performance and attractive pricing, it will become one of our best sellers.

3100
A single base extruded propellant that serves well from the .243 Winchester to the big magnums, particularly the 7mm Remington Magnum. It has proven to be a cost effective replacement for IMR 4831 and H4831. This the powder used by Earl Liebatrau to win the Camp Perry Wimbledon match in 1988 and 1990. Available from Accurate since 1977.

8700
The slowest powder available to reloaders. This slow-burning double base, ball propellant is best suited to the magnum rifle case as the .264 Winchester Magnum, 7mm Remington Magnum, .257 Weatherby Magnum, .270 Weather Magnum, and the .300 Weatherby Magnum. It may also be used in cartridges such as the .25-06 Remington and .270 Winchester (velocity and pressure will be reduced from normal, but accuracy is outstanding). Interestingly it performs well in a large variety of cartridges for cast bullet loads. Use of a magnum primer is recommended for best results.

Alliant (Formerly Hercules) Brand
Bullseye
A high energy, quick burning powder, perhaps the most widely used pistol powder available. It is capable of excellent accuracy in a wide range of pistol cartridges.

Red Dot
A shotshell powder that is very useful for handgun and rifle loads.

Green Dot
Basically designed as a 12 gauge shotgun powder, it is useful for a wide range of handgun and rifle loads.


Unique
An all around double base powder appealing to handgun and rifle shooters. This powder is very effective for reduced cast bullet rifle loads.

Herco
A slow burning, course grain, double base powder that is effective in some handgun and rifle loads.

Blue Dot
Designed for magnum waterfowl shotshells, it is used in some handgun loads with varying degrees of success.

2400
A fine grain, double base powder useful in heavy handgun loads and some rifle cartridges.

Reloader 7
Slowest burning of the Alliant canister powders, this double base propellant has some handgun uses. It is becoming increasingly popular with cast bullet rifle shooters.

Hodgdon Brand
HP38
A fast burning powder for most handgun reloading requirements, particularly .38 Special loads.

Trap 100
A fast burning spherical type double base powder. It is excellent for target loads in handguns.


HS5
A spherical double base slow burning powder.

HS6
A spherical double base slow burning powder.

HS7
The slowest burning of the Hodgdon spherical double base powders. Gives uniform ballistics.

H110
A spherical type powder adaptable to heavy pistol loads and .30 Carbine.

H4227
Fastest burning of the rifle powders, the propellant is well suited to the Hornet and lighter bullets in .222 Remington.

H4198
This propellant is particularly useful in small and medium capacity cartridges and also large, straight walled cases such as the .444 Marlin and .45-70 Government.

H322
This powder performs best in small to medium capacity cases and has proven to be an optimum powder for benchrest shooters in .22 and .308 cartridges.

BL-C(2)
This spherical type powder is popular with a large number of handgun shooters and performs well in the .222 Remington.

H335
A spherical powder adaptable to a number of cartridges from small to medium case capacities. Has exhibited good performance with cast bullets in .30-.30 Winchester bolt action rifles.

H4895
An extremely versatile powder in almost all rifle cases from .222 Remington to .458 Winchester.



H380
This spherical propellant would appear between IMR 4320 and IMR 4350 in a burning rate chart and is a good choice for the .22/250 and .220 Swift as well as the larger calibers.

H414
Another of the spherical powders, this propellant is useful in medium to large calibers; particularly with lighter bullets.

H450
A spherical powder used for medium and large calibers, it is well suited for maximum loads.


H4831
One of the most popular of all propellants, the manufacturer states that one may use the same loading data as listed for the original 4831 surplus powder. This is an excellent powder for the larger calibers including the magnums.

H870
Slowest burning of the Hodgdon powders, this spherical propellant is only useful in the large, magnum rifle cartridges with heavy bullets.

IMR (Formerly Du Pont) Brand
HI-SKOR 700X
A clean-burning, double-base powder, this propellant is useful for a wide range of handgun and rifle cartridges.

PB
Originally developed as a universal shotshell powder, it has a wide range of applications as a handgun and rifle propellant.

SR 7625
A Versatile single base powder which lends itself to a wide range of loading applications and is suitable for a variety of handgun and rifle cartridges.

SR 4756
Basically a magnum shotshell powder with limited application in heavy handgun and rifle loads.
SR 4759
Basically a rifle powder with limited handgun applications. Probably the most useful propellant for cast bullets, because of its remarkable stability with reduced loads.

IMR 4227
The fastest burning powder of the IMR series, this is a versatile powder suitable for heavy handgun loads and many rifle loads.

IMR 4198
A single base, fast burning powder useful for a variety of handgun and rifle loads. Second fastest burning of the IMR series.


IMR 3031
This single base powder, normally recommended by the manufacturer for medium capacity cartridges, is very versatile and performs well with cast bullets in large, straight cases such as 45-70.

IMR 4895
Primarily a rifle powder of comparatively fine grain, this single base powder is very versatile and provides good ballistic uniformity.

IMR 4064
A single base powder for medium to large capacity cases, this propellant is useful when high velocities are desired with cast bullets.

IMR 4320
A relatively slow burning, single base powder for heavy bullets in medium to large capacity cases.

IMR 4350
A slow burning propellant useful with cast when high loading density in large cases is desired.

IMR 4831
Slowest burning of the IMR powders, this propellant performs best in large capacity cases such as the 7mm and 8mm Remington Magnum cartridges.


Winchester Brand
231
A very fast high energy pistol powder designed for target and standard velocity loads in handguns.

296
This is the factory powder used in .357 Magnum and .44 Magnum loads. The manufacturer cautions against using reduced loads with this powder. A reduction in powder charge from listed weights can cause dangerous pressures.

680
A very fast rifle powder designed specifically for small cases like the .30 Carbine and .22 Hornet.

748
Basically a rifle powder that has proven to be well suited for cast bullets.

760
A rifle powder covering a broad range of applications where a higher loading density with cast bullets may be desirable.

785
A slow burning rifle powder particularly suited to the .243 Winchester cartridge. Also useful for medium and large capacity cases and a number of belted magnum cases.

Black Powder/Pyrodex Usage Chart
FFFG
Commonly called “Four F”, this is the finest granulation and is used for priming flintlocks. Due to its rather limited use, it is usually somewhat difficult to obtain. When necessary, FFFG may substituted. There is no Pyrodex equivalent.

FFFG/Pyrodex “P”
Commonly called “Triple F”, this powder is used in most single shot pistols and all percussion revolvers. It is also popular for all smaller caliber rifles up to and including 50 caliber. When FFFFG is not available, FFFG may be used to prime a flintlock.

FFG/Pyrodex “R&S”
Commonly called “Double F”, this is a popular powder for rifles over 50 caliber and up to 75 caliber. Also used in the larger caliber single shot pistols and most shotguns.

FG/Pyrodex “Ctg”
Commonly called “Single F”, this is the coarsest granulation used for small arms. Use is pretty much restricted to rifles over 75 caliber and large bore shotguns.

[lilredhunter]

I appreciate the info . It is a lot to take in so I copied and pasted so I would have it from now on.